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Bathroom renovations: top regrets first-time renovators have

Expert tips to help make sure you get it right the first time.
Luxurious bathroom with peach marble walls, floating vanity, vessel sink, floral arrangement, and checkered floor tiles in pinks and blues.Photography: Mindi Cooke

Renovating your home is a big job, so getting it right the first time is important. Bathroom renovations can be particularly challenging as the fixtures and fittings are secured firmly in place early in the build and it can be costly to change things once they have been installed.

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Bathroom renovation regrets are common

This is one room where function trumps form every time. No matter how luxe the layout or how elegant your new bathtub is, plumbing and drainage diagrams need careful measurement and consideration from the outset. Ultimately the goal is to ensure your choices in tapware and accessories bring character and comfort and the best-prepared renovators will have designs settled upon and items sourced and at the ready for when tradespeople reach for them.

Elegant bathroom with green wall tiles, marble vanity countertop, and a built-in bathtub beside a window with floral blinds. The vanity joinery is also green.
Sage green wall tiles and a Roman blind in Sanderson ‘Catherinae Embroidery’ fabric in Fuchsia link back to nature. (Credit: Photography: Abbie Melle)

Some renovators learn this the hard way. To avoid bathroom renovating pitfalls, industry experts have shared their tips and tricks.

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hamptons inspired bungalow upper north shore guest bathroom quartzite vanity
Bold design choices make a statement in this elegantly restored 1930s bungalow in Sydney’s Upper North Shore. (Photography: Chris Warnes / Styling: Lucy Gough)

Shower screens & open shower zones

Enclosure-free shower zones feel spacious, are easily accessed and simple to clean (less walls, etc). However, size matters. We spoke to Alexandra Devine, marketing lead at Reece Bathrooms, to help decide.

“Open shower zones are generally not ideal in very small bathrooms, where splashing into the main space is almost unavoidable.”

ALEXANDRA DEVINE, REECE BATHROOMS MARKETING LEAD

They’re also unsuitable where electrical elements, such as heated towel rails, are positioned close to the wet area.

Senior Industrial Designer for Caroma, Luke Di Michael, suggests a dedicated “wet zone” at one end of the bathroom. “As a guide, allow at least one and a half to two metres of splash distance, and use ceiling-mounted rain shower heads to minimise lateral spray.”

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Luxurious pink and gold bathroom with dual sinks, oval mirrors, and arch shower in a marble setting.
This bathroom opted for a walk-in design. An elegant pink arch frames this open shower, transforming it into a centrepiece with tapware from Caroma’s Liano collection. (Credit: Photography: Caroma)
Luxurious bathroom with green marble walls, checker-patterned floor, skylight, and frosted glass shower door.
Half shower screens are increasingly popular, but are they functional? (Credit: Photography: Anson Smart)

A case for the shower screen

While open shower zones and no shower doors are increasing in popularity, fully enclosed showers allow flexibility in the room layout and keep water well contained. Plus, they retain heat. The door is all important.

“For compact or awkward spaces, hinged doors often provide greater versatility,” says Alexandra.

Marble bathroom with open glass shower, dark tiles, beige towel, and marble countertop sink.
Arabescato marble frames the doorway in this enclosed shower by Smac Studio, complete with glass door and luxe golden hinges. (Credit: Dave Wheeler )
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Minimum Clearances

Bathroom clearances ensure safe movement, accessibility, and comfortable daily use. Essential measurements include a minimum 600 mm clear space in front of toilets and vanities, 450 mm from toilet centerlines to side walls, and a 900 mm × 900 mm minimum internal shower size.

Toilet Clearances:

Front Clearance: Minimum of 600 mm (though 750 mm to 1200 mm is highly recommended) between the toilet rim and any obstruction.
Side Clearance: Minimum of 200 mm to 250 mm from the center of the toilet to any adjacent wall or fixture (total width should be 800 mm to 900 mm).
Doorway/Circulation: If applicable, 1200 mm of clear circulation space must be maintained in front of the toilet, clear of any door swings.

Vanity & Sink Clearances

Front Clearance: At least 600 mm to 700 mm of clear floor space in front of the vanity for easy access.
Walkway Width: For premium functionality (passing someone else), a walkway width of 1000 mm to 1200 mm is recommended.
Bench Space: Aim for at least 500 mm of usable bench space surrounding your basin.

Showers & Baths

Shower Size: The absolute minimum interior shower floor area is 900 mm × 900 mm.
Bath Clearance: Allow at least 1000 mm of clearance along the primary entry/exit side of the bathtub. For freestanding tubs, maintain 100 mm to 150 mm from the walls for cleaning access.

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General Layout

Door Clearance: Ensure no swinging door hits any of the bathroom fixtures (leave at least 50 mm to 100 mm clearance).
Power Outlets: Must be kept at least 500 mm to 600 mm away from wet zones like sinks and showers.

Vanity in Steph and Gian's ensuite with round mirror
(Credit: Photography: Lauren Trompp / Styling: Nonci Nyoni / Styling assistant: Julia Baston)

Ventilation

Studio Aem’s Alexandra Mason, urges first-time renovators to not dismiss ventilation as an important part of a bathroom renovation. Functionality forms the foundation of every bathroom design.

“Proper ventilation prevents moisture build-up, protects finishes, and keeps the space fresh.”

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Lighting

Interior designer Anna Maria Stillone has one tip: “Spend time thinking about the space.” And this is about the all-important lighting. “The smallest change in proportion can make the biggest difference when dealing with a small space.

Think: wall sconces on either side of a mirror. Front-facing, and never directly above on the ceiling where the mirror is concerned.

A bathroom vanity, with marble as the benchtop and splashback. The vanity has a deep apron, made from the same marble, which has warm tones complemented by antique brass tapware. Underneath the apron, oak joinery creates storage. Twin mirrors are positioned above twin basins in the vanity, with a wall sconce on either side.
(Credit: Photography: Mindi Cooke)

Going Over Budget

Setting a budget is an important first step before you begin your bathroom renovations. What’s even more important is sticking to it. “You need to know your boundaries, along with knowing what you really want to achieve with your renovation,” says Josh Mammoliti, Managing Director, The Blue Space. Failing to do this could mean not being able to fully enjoy your new bathroom because of how much it ended up costing.

Always add a strict 15-20% contingency budget for structural/plumbing surprises behind old walls.

Hidden costs may be hiding within asbestos removal, re-routing old pipes etc.

Attempting DIY 

Sure, you can teach yourself just about anything on YouTube these days, but that doesn’t mean you should put your new skills into practice. Josh says, “The attractiveness of a DIY price tag and potential satisfaction of doing a job ourselves can sometimes over run our abilities.” Doing so could end up costing you more in the long run. “Keep in mind that often when attempting to do a specialist trade job yourself, you will end up spending more in the end because getting the specialists to fix up mistakes comes with a high cost,” says Josh. 

It is also important to know what can and can’t be done yourself: If it involves waterproofing, plumbing, gas or electricity, it generally must be done by a licensed professional. Cosmetic work is usually fair game for DIYers.

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DIY-friendlyLeave to the pros
PaintingWaterproofing
DemolitionPlumbing
Towel rails & hooksElectrical work
MirrorsGas fitting
Flat-pack cabinetryUnderfloor heating
StylingShower and toilet connections

Design flaws

Mismatched bathrooms

Just because something looks like it works on Pinterest and Instagram doesn’t mean it will translate in your bathroom. If you aren’t sure, get a professional, or a second opinion. 

You could use the 60-30-10 rule to create a cohesive bathroom.

Many first-time renovators fall into the trap of choosing finishes they love individually, only to discover they don’t work together once installed. The result can be a bathroom that feels visually cluttered or lacking in cohesion

Interior designers often rely on this rule to create balance within a space:

  • 60%: Your dominant finish or colour, such as wall tiles, floor tiles or paint.
  • 30%: A secondary colour or material, such as cabinetry, a vanity finish or feature tiling.
  • 10%: Accent details, including tapware, lighting, mirrors and accessories.

    For example, a bathroom might feature white wall tiles as the dominant element (60%), warm oak cabinetry as the secondary feature (30%), and brushed brass tapware and lighting as accents (10%).

    By limiting your palette before shopping, you’ll be less likely to make impulse purchases that don’t complement the overall design.

    Important note: The mistake most first-timers make with the 60-30-10 rule is counting their floor and wall tiles as separate blocks, which accidentally splits their dominant colour and creates visual chaos. Instead, treat your main wall tile as your 60% dominant base, and let your floor tile or vanity serve as the 30% grounding element.
Small ensuite bathroom with pink colour drenched wall and flooring, an aged brass showerhead, marble sink, and vase of pink flowers positioned atop a nib wall, near a window with sheer Roman blinds.
This small bathroom is narrow but the ceilings were high. Kate maximised space by keeping the shower at the end, with a functional yet visually unobtrusive nib wall to contain the water in this wet zone. (Credit: Photography: Anjie Blair)

Choose one tapware finish and stick to it

Another common mistake is mixing too many metallic finishes. While combining metals can work in experienced hands, it can easily make a bathroom feel disjointed.

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As a general rule:

  • Match your basin mixer, shower fittings and bath spout in the same finish.
  • Keep accessories such as towel rails, toilet roll holders and robe hooks consistent with your tapware.
  • If introducing a second metal, limit it to decorative elements such as lighting or mirror frames.

Popular combinations include:

  • Brushed brass with warm timber tones
  • Matte black with crisp white finishes
  • Brushed nickel with natural stone
  • Chrome with contemporary minimalist schemes

Before purchasing anything, create a simple mood board featuring your tiles, vanity finish, benchtop and tapware. Seeing all materials together can help identify clashes before they become expensive mistakes.

Hamptons cottage Southern Highlands
Fixtures and fittings in this grand cottage in the Southern Highlands emulate the style of Hamptons homes. (Credit: Photography: Abbie Melle / Styling: Lisa Burden
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Having unrealistic expectations 

Renovating a bathroom involves hiring lots of different tradespeople, so at the very least allow for delays. “It’s good to have your expectations at the right level when it comes to renovations,” says Josh. “Remember The Block isn’t real life; there are so many trades in the process, so lining up trades perfectly will always be a problem.”

Remember: television editing cuts out the 72 hours of waterproofing curing time and the bureaucratic nightmare of council plumbing approvals. Real renovations move at the speed of local compliance, not primetime television.

“Make sure you choose colours and tones that are timeless, not jarring. If you get stuck, look at bathroom packages available for inspiration.”

JOSH MAMMOLTI, THE BLUE SPACE
A powder room with a gold framed mirror, wall lights, marble benchtop and splashback and brass tapware.
(Credit: Photography: Simon Whitbread / Styling: Lucy Gough)

Non-regrets

There are small luxuries that can be added to bathrooms that designers push as a massive non-regret. If it can be achieved, do it! For most, this is underfloor heating.

Neale Whitaker once said you should make one change to your home. A former judge on The Block, and now on My Reno Rules, Neale knows a thing or two about home renovations.

“The one thing that I can’t believe I left so late in life to do, that has made a huge difference, is putting underfloor heating in our bathrooms,” he shared on The Edit podcast. Neale took the plunge into underfloor heating while renovating his previous home in Berry, and was surprised at its affordability. “I always imagined it would be a very expensive thing to do, and of course it’s actually not. Not if you’re already renovating your bathroom,” he continued. “But my goodness, it’s wonderful. It’s life changing in the colder months.”

The benefits of underfloor heating go beyond simply having a warm bathroom in winter. It can also help to reduce mould and even cut electrical costs. Underfloor heating can also offer improved air quality when compared with some other forms of indoor heating, which is a boon for allergy sufferers. 

Alexandra Mason agrees. “Underfloor heating is an item that I would recommend. Not only does it create a warm, ambient space, it also helps to keep floors dry as well.” This practical purpose is often overlooked by those who view underfloor heating as a luxury.

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Types of underfloor heating

  • In-slab heating: These are built into the concrete slabs of your home’s foundation. These are easier to install in new builds, as opposed to renovations. Slab heating can be hydronic or electric, but hydronic (a water-based heating system) is more common.
  • In-screed heating: The screed is a thinner layer of concrete poured over the slab. This is the better choice for renovators, and is most likely to be electric as opposed to hydronic. (But can be either!) Underfloor screed heating warms up quicker and is more popular in Australia than slab heating.
  • Under-tile or carpet heating: In this type, the heating system is built into a mat laid beneath your floor. Think of it like an electric blanket beneath your tiles or carpets. Along with in-screed heating, underfloor heating mats are a popular, affordable option for Australian renovators.

    ServiceTasker says underfloor heating in Australia costs between $40 and $120 per square metre. Meanwhile, online trades directory Hipages, offers this cost breakdown for the different types of underfloor heating:
  • In-slab hydronic: From $65 per sqm
  • In-slab electric: From $40 per sqm
  • In-screed hydronic: From $105 per sqm
  • In-screed electric: From $115 per sqm
  • Under-tile or under-carpet: From $70 per sqm

    Smaller installations are likely to increase the cost per square metre. The average size of a bathroom in Australia is 6 square metres. If we use a more costly estimate of $120 per square-metre, it still only costs a total of $720 to do the whole bathroom.

    You can see our full breakdown of underfloor heating here.
An ensuite bathroom with marble wall tiles, floor tiles and bath fascia. A glass screen blocks the view of the shower to the left. The timber vanity has a curved edge and marble benchtop. THe hardware is brass and two rectangle mirrors are positioned above twin basins set into the marble benchtops.
Investing in a double-vanity will always be a non-regret! (Credit: Photography: Maree Homer )

Shop the looks…

green bathroom vanity

Stevie Wall Hung Single Vanity with Stone Countertop,
$1,459, Temple & Webster

Rochelle Lever Basin Set PVD,
$529 $369, Early Settler

Rosso Levanto Marble Rectangular Honed Basin,
$1,560.00 $890, Marble Hub

Hayden Oval Pivot Mirror Chrome,
$419 $249, Early Settlers

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